My Boyfriend has a Yellow Head.

Goat's Cheese Salad

Goat’s Cheese Salad

We are becoming goat’s cheese salad connoisseurs. This is the version from a cafe in Torroella. There is a warm (grilled?) chunk of ‘Chèvre de Cabra’ on a generous pile of lettuce, raisins and walnuts, dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar and with a few cherry tomatoes scattered about. Delicious. Note the toast under the cheese. This acts, for the food geeks amongst you, as an insulator. I neglected this on the first attempt to emulate this delicacy in Mavis and ended up with rather warm and soggy lettuce. The other mistake was to overwarm the cheese, so it became melted cheese on lettuce. Tasty, but no michelin stars for me that day.

River Ter

River Ter

This is one of the several cycle routes back from Torroella to L’Estartit which runs along the River Ter. We have put down roots here in Catalonia for a couple of weeks which is why there has not been a lot happening on the blog. There is a lot to see here and it is all very cycle friendly with very little traffic on the smaller roads and none on dirt tracks like this one.

Apple Orchards

Apple Orchards

This track passes between orchards (in need of pruning?) on one side and the river on the other.

Nature Reserve

Nature Reserve

There is a nature reserve about a half mile from the site where we are staying (Camping Les Medes
N 42.042536, E 3.183671).

Bird Hide

Bird Hide

Looking east from the Hide

Looking east from the Hide

There is a pleasant walk to this bird hide from the camp. It overlooks a small reed fringed lake and Les Medes islands can be seen in the distance. There were only a few mallard splashing around when we visited.

Beach at L'Estartit

Beach at L’Estartit

This is the walk along the beach to L’Estartit. Again the Medes Islands can be seen off shore.

John and Sue

John, Sue and Nia

On Sunday we walked in to L’Estartit for Sunday lunch with John and Sue, two fellow motor homers from Felixstowe. I gorged on Gazpacho and paella, to make amends in a small way for the English group whom we overheard saying loudly…’Have you any British Food?’

Salty

Salty

John and Sue’s dog Salty, friendly media canine…ex star of a programme on Battersea dog’s home presented by Paul O’Grady.

Aeroclub de L'Estartit

Aeroclub de L’Estartit

There is a small grass strip flying club about a mile to the west.

Local Fauna

Local Fauna

We spotted this friendly guy trying to break in to the new shower block on the camp site.

Me Gustaria Tapas

Me Gustaria Tapas

I am amusing the locals by trying to learn spanish, and practicing on them. I am using the excellent online ‘saysomethinginspanish’ course courtesy of Aran, in north Wales. I may have mentioned before that efforts to communicate in spanish can be torpedoed if you come across a good english speaker who is keen of course to reply in the queen’s english. Aran’s suggestion to this was to hit back at them in welsh, of which I handily know 4 words (aira bach, aira mawr). Any friends of Nia will immediately know that this means ‘Little snow, big snow’….profound old North welsh proverb.
Anyway…. yesterdays victim, working in a shop, had very little English so I didn’t need to wheel out the Welsh and we had a friendly, if not altogether understandable, conversation. I think that her boyfriend has a yellow head. Easy to locate if she loses him in a crowd.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, L'Estartit, Torroella de Montgri

Torroella…Los Americanos

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On Monday we cycled along the promenade to L’Estartit and then along the cycle way to Torroella de Montgrí.

Chasing Sticks

Chasing Sticks

Surfs Up.

Surfs Up.

We had a swim en route. Well not all of us.

Main Square Torroella

Main Square Torroella

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Sundial in Torroella

Sundial in Torroella

We had lunch close to the pretty main square.

Casas de los Americanos

Casas de los Americanos

These two matching houses were built by ‘los americanos’, Joan and Pere Maquès, two brothers who left L’Estartit in the early nineteenth century and returned to settle back in their home town together having made their fortune in Cuba.

Joan's datestone

Joan’s datestone

The Perola

The Perola

The brothers paid for this clock tower to be built next to their houses, in 1878. Spot the longitude…only 12 minutes east…we are very close to the Greenwich meridian.

Artwork on La Perola

Artwork on La Perola

The surrealist painting is by Joan Fuster, a locally born painter.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, Torroella de Montgri

Cala Callela…The Assault Course

Cap de la Barra

Cap de la Barra

We had another shot at the coastal path today. We locked our bikes up outside the local Oficina de Turismo and walked up the steep path to this viewpoint, the Cap de la Barra. It is about 100 metres above sea level, and close to the harbour at L’Estartit.

Penny as always goes right up to the cliff edge and looks over.

Penny's eye view.

Penny’s eye view.

Clear Green Water at the foot of the cliffs.

Clear Green Water at the foot of the cliffs.

The Path to Cala Callela

The Path to Cala Callela

The path along the cliffs is steep and rocky. In fact it was more like an assault course than a walk. I have a shot of Nia limboing under a fallen tree but it has been censored.

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Small Cove along the Way

Small Cove along the Way

Cala Callela

Cala Callela

This is the Cala….it translates as a creek or inlet. We met no one else walking here or at the creek so the locals obviously know its not an easy walk.

Colin

Colin

Colin doesn’t like walks. From time to time he sits down in the hope that we’ll come to our senses and turn back.

Viewpoint at Cap de La Barra

Viewpoint at Cap de La Barra

We walked back past the cliff top look out and down into L’Estartit.

Catalonian Flag

Catalonian Flag

There is a strong movement hoping for independence here in Catalonia. Yesterday’s poll showed 80% in favour of Catalonia becoming an independent state and there are Catalonian flags and yellow ribbons everywhere.

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There are still flowers everywhere. Autumn is late; the locals tell us it is warmer than usual for this time of year.

Lunch

Lunch

We had lunch in a smart restaurant overlooking the harbour. Well it was smart until we turned up with two dogs in tow. We were going to go back to Mavis for a late lunch but couldn’t resist the four course menu del dia (less than 30 euros for 2, including drinks, bargain) . We had just survived an assault course.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, L'Estartit

Calamares a la Romana

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We are putting down roots here in L’Estartit; it is quiet and peaceful here at the moment in the low season. There’s not a lot in Saturday’s blog entry because not a lot happened. We set off for a walk along a coastal path, got lost, and had a good trek through some hollyoak scrub and then an old Spanish wood, circling back in to L’Estartit about 4 miles later.

Montgri Castle

Montgri Castle

We snapped the moon setting behind Montgri Castle.

View from the Walk...the Return Leg

View from the Walk…the Return Leg

The Navigator.

The Navigator.

Lunch

Lunch

We stopped at Restaurant Rosamar for a late lunch of tapas and postre.

Tapas First Course

Tapas First Course

Patatas Bravas (potatoes with a yummy creamy tomato sauce), mejillones (mussels), chorizo and olives.

Calamares a la Romana

Calamares a la Romana

We found the Calamares (squid in batter) a bit rubbery and not to our taste but Colin and Penny, hiding under the table, wolfed them down.

We also tried pescaditos…small fried fish, sardinas….sardines fried in butter and garlic and croquetas de la casa….a sort of fish dumpling. Delicious.

The wind had freshened while we were eating so it was a slightly wobbly cycle ride back against a head wind. The kite surfers were out in force in the bay. Then back to Mavis for a snooze, a bit of Spanish, a game of bananagrams…..life in the fast lane.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, L'Estartit

Torroella de Montgri…Un Petit Rebellion and the Bishop’s Nose

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Today we cycled to Torroella de Montgri which is a small town about 5 km inland from L’Estartit. There is a good cycle path, mainly off road, from L’Estartit.

Montgri Castle

Montgri Castle

Torroella de Magri gets its name from this Castle, built between 1294 and 1301, which sits on a massif overlooking the town.

Montgri Massif

Montgri Massif

The Massif is said to have the appearance of a sleeping bishop…you can just make out the castle on his nose.

There was a small rebellion at this point. I had planned a quick cycle up to the Castle and then down in to the town for a spot of lunch. Nia put the alternative proposal that we cut out the castle leg and headed straight in to town to reconnoitre the eating establishments. After a short discussion it was decided to leave the castle for another day.

Torroella de Montgri

Torroella de Montgri

Sant Génis Church

Sant Génis Church

We cycled through the narrow alleyways and past this church, in the gothic style, to one of the town’s squares, where we tucked in to tapas and cava.

We cycled back through L’Estartit where I had some fun buying dog food in Spanish ‘cena para los perros’ I think I said; it should have been comida. It certainly made them smile. Then back to Mavis for (another) relaxing evening.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, Torroella de Montgri

L’Estartit…Moonrise over Les Medes

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On Thursday we drove 25 miles down the coast to Camping Les Medes ( N 42.042504, E 3.183582) near the coastal town of L’Estartit. This is a friendly medium sized site with a few things going on even in the low season; I joined in a Spanish lesson in the late afternoon.

Beach at L'Estartit

Beach at L’Estartit

There is a well paved cycle track along the seafront to the village of L’Estartit which is less than a mile to the north. Like many of the seaside towns in Spain it was originally a fishing village which expanded dramatically with the tourist boom but visitor numbers (according to Wiki) are now declining.

Harbour at L'Estartit

Harbour at L’Estartit

We cycled past the harbour and up the hill overlooking the village and bay.

Medes Islands

Medes Islands

Just offshore are the Medes Islands from which the campsite takes its name.

Looking south to L'Estartit

Looking south to L’Estartit

100 m or so above L'Estartit

100 m or so above L’Estartit

Evening sky over the Mediterranean

Evening sky over the Mediterranean

Moonrise over the Medes Islands

Moonrise over the Medes Islands

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Today Friday we are planning to cycle to Toroella de Montgri, a town a little inland which is the capital of the area.

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Posted in - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, L'Estartit

Roses…El Dolmen de la Creu

Roses Beach

Roses Beach

Today Wednesday the weather had taken a distinct turn for the better and we set off on our bikes again, heading out of Roses towards El Dolmen de la Creu…this is a neolithic structure; one of many scattered over Spain and France.

The Road up from Roses

The Road up from Roses

The Path to the Dolmen

The Path to the Dolmen

The path to the Dolmen is only 2 km or so from the campsite. We chained our bikes to the post here and carried on on foot.

Dolmen de le Creu

Dolmen de le Creu

This is the dolmen. Erected about 5000 years ago it was used, it is thought, to bury the important men (and women?…who knows) of the time. The granite top alone weighs 4 tons so there would have been a few bad backs when that was lifted on. Later (a lot later) it was used as a goat shelter…No disrespect intended I’m sure but Gertie and Gonzalez did need somewhere to keep dry when it rained.

Parakeets in a Palm Tree

Parakeets in a Palm Tree

We cycled back into town and along the seat front, past flocks of parakeets in the palm trees, for lunch in a beachside cafe.

Lunch spot.

Lunch spot.

View from our Dining Room Window

View from our Dining Room Window

We had the full Monty…a three course menu del dia..sphagetti with pesto and stuffed pepper for me and the boss respectively as a starter then we both had spicy chicken and rice for main course. We finished off with hazelnuts in chocolate sauce and ice cream for me and the Missus respectively. Delicious. No more food needed that day.

Roman Anchor

Roman Anchor

There is a long cyclable seafront here, perfect for a some gentle post lunch exercise. Interesting artefacts are dotted about. The main fluke of this anchor is a massive chunk of lead which dates from Roman times.

Afternoon Sun.

Afternoon Sun.

Evening View

Evening View

We explored a bit more of the town then cycled back at sunset. Tomorrow we will head down the coast a few miles to L’Estartit.

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Posted in - Spain, Catalonia, Roses

Port Vendres to the Bay of Roses. Un Poco de lluvia.

Harbour at Port Vendres

Harbour at Port Vendres

After an overnight stop overlooking the beach at Sète, we moved on down the coast to an aire at Port-Vendres. The aire ( N 42.517752, E 3.114114 )isn’t very pretty, being tucked away behind a large container terminal, but Port Vendres itself is a lovely fishing village. It is 8 miles north of the Spanish border. Just to the north of Port-Vendres is Collioure, another attractive fishing port. It was in Collioure that Patrick O’Brian wrote many of the Master and Commander series of novels.

Bay at Port Vendres

Bay at Port Vendres

The weather is changing and with rain forecast we moved further south on Tuesday in to Spain.

España

España

Disused Border Post

Disused Border Post

We took the coast road round to the Bay of Roses. it is a bit twisty, and there were some rumblings from the co-pilot about the benefits of roads with more than two lanes, but there were great views of the mainly rocky coast.

Bay of Roses

Bay of Roses

We arrived at Camping Salatà ( N 42.266353, E 3.15601) in the town of Roses at lunchtime, in the rain. I have been trying to freshen up my very limited spanish over the last few days and managed a few words about the lluvia (rain) with the very cheerful gardener here. I had less luck with the delightful receptionist..having told her I was trying to learn spanish she told me that they didn’t speak spanish here; catalan was the local lingo.
I told her we had two dogs..she raised her eyebrows…’small dogs’…’Well I’ll only charge for one then’

Seafront in Roses

Seafront in Roses

We cycled around Roses in the rain. There is a palm tree fringed beach and a couple of rather time ravaged forts. We found a good sea front cycle ride extending north from the port.

Port at Roses

Port at Roses

The soccer stadium

The soccer stadium

Water football anyone?

The Beach

The Beach

We’re not showing you Roses at its best…in the sun this would be an amazing place.

The Bay, with a fort in the middle distance

The Bay, with a fort in the middle distance

We picked up a spanish sim (2 GB, €20 from Orange) and some luscious spanish pimentos on the way back and feasted on fajitas. Tomorrow? We’ll see what the weather does.

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Posted in - France, - Spain, 2014 Autumn, Catalonia, Languedoc-Roussillon, Port Vendres, Roses

Castellane and the Grand Canyon

Road to the Grand Canyon

Road to the Grand Canyon

On Sunday we drove 212 miles across Provence to an aire at Sète, on the eastern edge of the Languedoc-Rousillon region. It’s good to travel on a Sunday in France; the lorries are all off the roads.

Route to Sète

Route to Sète

We drove first to Castellane, a small town dominated by a chapel perched on a huge rocky outcrop.

Parking at Castellane

Parking at Castellane

There is a good aire in the village, well placed at the foot of the rock for those who have eaten too many boules of ice cream and need a bit of exercise. The aire is €6 for 24 hours; we just stopped for a couple of hours.

We walked through the town square and then up the rocky path to the chapel, along the remnants of the old city wall.

Road to the Rock

Road to the Rock

Path to the Top

Path to the Top

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Looking Back at Castellane

Looking Back at Castellane

View from the Top

View from the Top

Castellane is placed on the banks of the River Verdon and is known as the gateway to the Verdon Gorges, the dramatic limestone canyons which were next on our itinerary.

Notre Dame du Roc

Notre Dame du Roc

Inside the Chapel

Inside the Chapel

Colin

Colin

When I went inside the chapel Colin sat down and wouldn’t budge until I reappeared. He likes to keep his humans together. In particular he has to keep an eye on the guy who feeds him each morning. He’s not stupid.

Towards the Verdon Gorge

Towards the Verdon Gorge

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We moved on east alongside the River Verdon and along the Gorge, marked on our map as the Grand Canyon.

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The road is wide enough, the only problem is that vehicles coming the other way tend to cut the their left hand corners and a few had to move swiftly back to their side of the road. There’s not a lot of wiggle room.

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Point Sublime

Point Sublime

We stopped briefly at the Point Sublime, one of the higher points along the road by the gorge.

Lac de Sainte Croix

Lac de Sainte Croix

At the head of the Grand Canyon the River Verdon turns south and widens in to this lake.

Moustiers Sainte Marie

Moustiers Sainte Marie

After a slightly white knuckle ride through the Verdon Gorge we stopped at the cliffside town of Moustiers Sainte Marie.

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Known as the village of waterfalls, it is built on either side of a ravine heading up the mountainside.

Main square Moustiers

Main square Moustiers

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Looking Up

Looking Up

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There is the standard church at the top of the village. We walked up…another boule of ice cream worked off.

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Moustiers

Moustiers

There is a good view down from the top. A few other hillside paths were signposted; we were running short of time by then and they have been left for another day (if I can ever persuade Nia to let me drive her motorhome along the gorges again).

The Path Down

The Path Down

We set off again at 4 for the long drive east to Sète, arriving at about 8. We had spotted the aire here on a cycle ride along the Plage de la Corniche a few weeks ago. The aire is on a strip of land running between Sète and Agde; you can park facing south east to the Mediterranean…a lovely aire (N 43.338944, E 3.578428).

Tomorrow we drive a little further south to Port Vendres, close to the Spanish border.

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Posted in - France, 2014 Autumn, Castellane, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Lac Thorenc….1.5 degrees…Are We still in France?

Lac Thorenc

Lac Thorenc

We headed inland and spent the night on an aire at Lac Thorenc ( N 43.799659, E 6.807767).
This is just the sort of aire we like, remote, surrounded by trees and with good walks through the forests or around the lake. There were two or three other motorhomes, all French and some picnickers enjoying the lake.

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It was a short drive up in to the foothills of the Alps. We stopped briefly at the Col de Vence in the company of some very fit cyclists. It is about 1000 metres.

Col de Vence

Col de Vence

You could just make out Nice from the Col but it was a bit hazy.

Lac Thorenc

Lac Thorenc

After a walk around the lake we feasted on a delicious hot chicken curry….thanks for the spices Helen… then settled down to watch an episode of Game of Thrones whilst the outside temperature plummeted; we were in the mountains now.

Frosty Morning.

Frosty Morning.

By the morning it was only 1.5 degrees centigrade…the combination of a clear night and our height (1130 metres). Today we set off to Sète, via Castellane.

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Posted in - France, 2014 Autumn, Lac Thorenc, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

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