The Romantic Rhine

Posted on May 17, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 4 Comments

Romantic Rhine

On Tuesday we drove from Remagen to Rüdesheim am Rhein, past a succession of fairy tale castles on both sides of the Rhine.

Route to Rüdesheim

Pfalz Castle

The mid-stream castle of Pfalz is just beyond the narrows at Lorely, where a mischievous sprite is reputed to lure hapless boatmen to their deaths in the fast-running water. The sprite is clearly still very active….she took over our satnav somewhere near Koblenz and repeatedly tried to lure us over a bridge with a 3.5 ton weight limit.

Rüdesheim am Rhein

After a prolonged detour through the outskirts of Koblenz we stopped at Campingplatz am Rhein next to the river at Rüdesheim. This town is said to be the gateway to the romantic rhine, a heavily be-castled stretch of water extending between Düsseldorf and Mainz.

Campingplatz am Rhein

Rüdesheim winehaus

Rüdesheim square

Brömserburg Wine Museum in Rüdesheim

Rüdesheim

Rüdesheim Window

The Eagle Tower

The Eagle tower is a fifteenth century fortification guarding the south end of the town.

Rüdesheim is a lovely old riverside town; there has been a settlement here for many thousand years. It is a major tourist attraction and is second only to Cologne cathedral, according to Mr Wiki, in the number of foreign tourists it attracts.

After a walk through the pretty streets of the town and a quick wifi and beer stop, we took the cable car to the Niederwald monument, high above the town. We got the reduced rate of €5….as it was almost 6 pm it was about to shut so we would have to walk down.

Setting off in the Cable Car

Rhine from the Cable Car

Germania…The Niederwald Monument

Built from 1877 to 1883 the monument commemorates the end of the Franco-German war of 1870-1871 and the re-establishment of the German Empire.

Germania

Niederwald Eagle

Germania sits perched on a massive plinth, looking down on Rüdesheim and the Rhine, with an imperial eagle and inscription below.

A Rhinemaiden

After we had snapped Germania and her pet eagle we walked down through the vineyards and back in to the town.

‘Scotish’ Pub

One of the less traditional sights in town…..hope there are no Scots reading the blog….not a very flattering depiction and as for the spelling…….

Weingut?

Wine in German is wein, and white wine weiss wein, but pronounced more like a v. So we guessed Weingut is what you get from drinking too much wein. If there are any german readers…..please feel free to correct me….

Rhine Passenger Liner

We walked back past the pleasure boat terminal. Tourism is big here with many posh boats cruising up and down packed with passengers. The campsite is just next to the passenger quay and a good sized park, ideal for exercising the family.

We had only one day in Rüdesheim; the next day was booked for a gathering with a few other motor-homers at the Concorde factory in Schlüsselfeld.

Tagged with: Germania, Mavis, motorhome, Niederwald, pfalz, photography, rhein, rhine, romantic rhine, Rudesheim
Posted in - Germany, 2015 Spring, Hesse, Rüdesheim am Rhein

Cross the Rhine with Dry Feet

Posted on May 15, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

Zonhoven to Remagen

On Sunday we drove out of Belgium, across a bit of Holland and into Germany, ending up on a stellplatz at Remagen, on the Rhine.

Remagen Stellplatz

Stellplatz at Remagen

The stellplatz is just next door to the Golden Mile campsite. 12 euros a night, and only a few yards to the cycle track along the Rhine.

The Bridge

Bridge Towers on the east bank

Remagen became famous in the closing stages of the second world war for the strategic importance of its bridge.

Story of the Bridge

The plaque tells the story. There is also a museum, now called the Peace Museum, which occupies the two west towers and contains much of interest, with a lot of English translations.

Jeep at Remagen

I met a couple from Bonn, who had driven up with their son in their beautifully restored jeep for the day. It was a 1943 model which they had tracked down and bought from France.

Town Hall Remagen

Remagen

Remagen is a pretty town with a long waterfront covered in cafes and restaurants.

The Rhine

We cycled 6 miles or so down the Rhine, past a succession of pretty villages and towns. It was too far for the dogs so Penny and Colin’s chariot was coupled up and they had a low effort sightseeing tour….just what Colin likes.

The other Bank

River Traffic

The Rhine Ferry

More Traffic

I think this says ‘Don’t drive here after tasting German beer’

There is plenty of river traffic to watch along the way.

Moby Dick

This is the Moby Dick, which plies it’s way back and forward from Bonn.

Crossing the Rhine. Not.

Mad canoeist

After the bike ride I gave the new toy it’s first continental outing, keeping well out of the way of the barges.

Apollo’s Church

Church of Apollo

The next day we walked up to the imposing church on the hill above Remagen. Built between 1839 and 1842, in the neb-gothic style, it is called the ‘Appollinariskirche’

Ice cream Heaven

It was a hot day; we had to stop for ice creams on the way back.

After two days at Remagen we set out for Rudesheim which is 60 miles further up river.

Tagged with: cycling, Germany, Mavis, motorhome, photography, remagen
Posted in May/June 2015, Remagen

Heidestrand

Posted on May 15, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

Belgium

On Saturday morning we took the early morning train to France and headed off east to spend the first night at Camping Heidestrand, Zonhoven, somewhere between Brussels and Maastricht, in the east of Belgium

Heidestrand

The site is surrounded by water and packed with wildlife, we parked up about 10 yards from the water, next to a couple of friendly swans.

The Pitch

Our Neighbours

We headed off with the dogs to explore the lakes.

Off for Breakfast

Coots

After lunch we biked over to the small town of Bolderberg…5pm Saturday so all the shops were shut…then headed towards the racing circuit just to the west of the town.

Bolderberg

The Belgian Grands Prix is sometimes held here…when we arrived a load of souped up Porsches were screeching round the track. We sneaked a few pictures through the fence.

The site is a good overnight stop with a lot to see and plenty of big pitches. Tomorrow we are heading further east, to Remagen, on the Rhine.

Tagged with: Heidestrand, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Zonhoven
Posted in 2013 Spring, 2015 Spring, Belgium, Zonhoven

High Wind Stops Play

Posted on May 8, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 6 Comments

High Tide at Fishery Creek

We have been staying at Fishery Creek on Hayling Island, a good site next to a muddy and bird infested creek…very pleasant.

Fishery Creek Locals

Egret

We had some good walks and cycle rides and made friends with Maurice and Alison, from Grand Cayman Island in the Caribbean.
I had been planning the first saltwater expedition in my latest toy, an inflatable kayak, but winds of 45-50 mph blew that idea out of the water. Or would have done had I ventured out.
We are heading to Germany at the weekend and planning to explore the Rhine and the Moselle; there will be plenty of other opportunities to fall in.

Haying Billy Trail

Hayling Billy Trail

On Thursday we took the bikes, with Colin and Penny in tow, along the Hayling Billy Trail. This is a great walk/cycle track along the course of a long deceased railway line. It extends most of the length of the western shore of Hayling Island.

Flypast

After the ride we were treated to a Spitfire display; loops, stall turns and other clever stuff. Perhaps the pilot was practising for a VE day celebration for today.

Woods at Densole

Cowslips

Densole Woods

Today we drove to Black Horse caravan Club site at Densole near Folkestone, ready to catch the 7.30 am Calais express tomorrow morning.
High winds are forecast for the crossing but hopefully it will be reasonably calm in the tunnel.

Tagged with: Folkestone, Hayling Island, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Spitfire
Posted in - United Kingdom, Folkestone, Hampshire, Hayling Island, Kent, May/June 2015

Its Snowing…We must be home

Posted on April 14, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 4 Comments

Chateau in Nonancourt

We spent one night in Nonancourt on the way home. Sadly Le Grand Cerf was shut so we had to make do with burger and chips washed down with Creme Catalan. Gourmet or wot?

Nonancourt

Sundial Nonancourt

Nonancourt

I discovered a nice old chateau by the river on the dog walk.

Our Ferry

Sunset Dieppe

Next stop Dieppe and after a trolley dash around Auchan to pick up olives, smelly cheese and other essentials we headed to the local Decathlon, to buy boules. Then off to the aire by the beach for the night.

Nia has a new Camera

Forsythia

Daff

We got in to Newhaven at about ten O’Clock in the morning and drove back up the M6 to Cumbria, which put on a nice snowstorm to welcome us home.

Tagged with: france, motorhome, photography
Posted in - France, Nonancourt

Saint-Pourcain-sur-Sioule.

Posted on April 7, 2015 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Route to Saint Pourcain

Millau

On Sunday we drove 200 miles up the A75 (mainly), across the Millau bridge, to arrive at the riverside aire in Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule

SPSS

Mavis

The aire ( N 46.312146 E 3.296693) was surprisingly quiet for Easter. Our pitch overlooks the Sioule, a tributary of the Allier, and a variety of birdlife was spotted from our kitchen window.

Local Birds

There were loads of ducks dabbling about, and every so often a kingfisher would shoot past…a streak of blue. We even saw an osprey, clutching its fish supper, the night we arrived. Googling it, I discovered that the Allier is a favoured migration route for ospreys heading north to breed in the Spring.

We are here to visit the vet on Tuesday for the pre channel crossing treatments. On Monday we walked up the Route de Brialles, an 8 mile loop walk through the vineyards above Saint Pourcain, thanks to a map supplied by the tourist office ..open on Easter Monday…brilliant service.

Wheelies

These guys were practising their display routine on the car park by the tourist office. Its a pity there wasn’t even one helmet between the three of them; the guy on the back, who kept falling off, could have used it.

Etang

The walk also includes woodland, and this small fishing lake.

La chapelle

This old Chapel is on a hill on the far point of the walk, surrounded by vineyards.

Tagged with: Aire, allier, Mavis, motorhome, osprey, Saint pourcain sur sioule
Posted in 2015 Spring, Auvergne, RouteNorththroughFrance, St Pourcain-sur-Sioule

Spanish Speaking Sheepdogs

Posted on April 5, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 7 Comments

La Couvertoirade

Route to La Couvertoirade

On Saturday we drove 159 miles across the border and up the A75 to an aire at the fortified medieval village of La Couvertoirade. It is a good spacious aire (N 43.910998 E 3.313492) which is €3 per night.

Walled Town

This is the view of La Couvertoirade from the aire.

By the Aire

Ruined Arch by the aire.

Mavis in the Aire

Templars Castle

The Knights Templars settled here in about 1200 and built a fortress on the solid rock here; on the Larzac plateau of the Aveyron. The village is unusual in that it is the only village in Europe, apparently, without a Spring. All the roofs, gutters and gently sloping streets were designed to funnel rainwater into the ‘Conque’ a large natural subterranean rock pool behind the church.

View from the Ramparts

The narrow streets are now packed with shops selling local foods and other temptations for the tourist, and a good sprinkling of restaurants and cafes.

Ramparts

It is worth taking the tour of the ramparts (€3) for the view of the roof tops and an excellent short film about the history of the village. Spinning wool was a major occupation here for many centuries and the shepherds, each with several dogs, would teach each of them in a different language. So French speaking Fido would move left on the command ‘A gauche!’ but English and Spanish speaking Ted and Miguel would ignore the command. Any commands where all dogs had to respond were done with whistle language. Clever.

Church

The Church

Inside the Church

Oak Gallery in Church

Cemetery with Templars Cross on Headstone

Water Hole

In times of conflict the village doors were barred but passing travellers, once identified as friendly through the larger hole, were given water which was poured through the smaller hole for them. You’d have to be ready with a cup or dish or it would just end up on your head.

Glass Sculpture

There is a modern glass sculpture by the church.

This way to the Windmill

Moulin

Push Here

There is a windmill overlooking the village. You have to push on the long tiller poking out the back to move the sails to face the wind.

So it is a great overnight stop, plenty to see and plenty of wild ground to walk the dogs. We will move a bit further up the road on Sunday.

Tagged with: Aire, Conque, france, La Couvertoirade, motorhome, photography, sheepdogs, Templars
Posted in - France, 2015 Spring, Aveyron, La Couvertoirade

Turning Up in Roses

Posted on April 4, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 5 Comments

Roses

On Thursday we drove to Roses, a fishing and tourist centre at the north end of the bay of Roses. We are staying at Camping Salata, a pleasant but slightly pricy site in Santa Margarida, just to the south of Roses.

Roses Beach

In the afternoon we cycled alongside the beach and then up a steep hill to the north of the town to a walk we know up to a collection of neolithic dolmens.

Dolmen

These massive blocks of stone were lifted into place 4-5000 years ago and may have been burial chambers. However despite a good sniff around the torpid terriers couldn’t find any old bones…and the older they are the better they like them.

Marayoor Dolmen in Kerala. Courtesy of Sanandkarunakaran.

Interestingly these dolmens are worldwide…the one above is from Kerala in India.

Dry Stone Hut

Colin and Dolmen

There is a lot of stuff to see along the walk; other dolmens and a clever hut with a roof of overlapping stones and no other visible means of support. We got to the top about 6 pm and had good views over Roses and bay, but a bit hazy and too much in to the sun for a good picture.

Empuribrava

Yesterday we cycled to Empuribrava which is a tightly packed collection of pretty old houses built around a network of canals, a bit like Venice but without the grand architecture.

Posh Canalside House and Solar powered boat

It was very busy being Good Friday and the canals were full of all sorts of craft buzzing up and down. They must lose a lot of the hire craft in all the little creeks and gullies; ‘equipped with GPS’ was a selling point on many of the booths we saw pushing boat hire.

Parakeets

There were a lot of parakeets flying about enjoying the easter break and nesting in the palm trees here.

The Greens

They are well camouflaged but do give themselves away by squawking very loudly.

La Muga

The cycle track continues alongside La Muga river and into the Emporda marshes, a quiet nature reserve which extends back along the coast to L’Escala.

Bridge over La Muga

This bridge leads to a network of tracks crossing the marshes.

We cycled back through old Empuribrava and past the airfield here which is a parachuting centre.

This is our last port of call on the Spain trip. We are setting off on Saturday to head back through France to the UK.

Tagged with: cycling, Dolmen, emporda marshes, Empuribrava, photography, Roses, Spain
Posted in - Spain, 2015 Spring, Catalonia, Roses

How Sweet it is to be Reclined

Posted on April 2, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

We have moved up the coast to L’Escala and are staying at Camping Illa Mateua. This is just a short hop south from L’Estartit but is just beyond easy cycling distance. As promised in the reviews the staff here are super friendly. We found a good pitch close to an extensive forest and about 5 minutes from the beach.

Illa Mateua

Cove by Campsite

There is a rather scrambly dog walk above the cove..Cala Montgo… and beach which are just by the campsite.

Walk Above campsite

There is a good flower infested dog walk up a hill just behind the campsite.

Cove en route to L’Escala Harbour

On the first day we walked along the cliff top route from Cala Montgo to the harbour at L’Escala and had lunch overlooking the boats. There are great views from the cliff top across the Bay of Roses.

Colin and Friend

Colin made friends with a photographer and posed with him on the clifftop.;

Harbour at L’Escala

Lamp Fishing Boats

Windy Day

The second day was a bit windy, but still sunny.

Brass Band?

Band – Detail

In the afternoon we cycled along the L’Escala seafront. There is a series of brass sculptures and many restaurants along the esplanade.

Empuries

Just to the north of L’Escala there is a cycle and walking track which leads to Empuries, about a mile further along the coast. At Empuries there are the remnants of an ancient harbour and trading centre, founded by Greek traders in 700BC, and later taken over by the Romans. This is an impressive and extensive site with the Greek city to the south and a larger Roman city just to the north.

Nea Polis…The Greek City

Asklepius

This is Asklepius, the Greek god of medicine, standing guard over his therapeutic and religious centre – the Asklêpíeion.

The Forum

They have part reconstructed the forum, basing the dimensions of the pillars and other stonework on excavated originals.

Public Baths

Next to the public baths are Domus 1 and 2; two large houses at the front of the roman city. These have almost complete mosaic floors in several of the rooms.

Domus 1

Symposia

This is a mosaic and inscription on the floor of the Symposia, a house where the ‘Free Men’ of the city were invited for banquets. The inscription translates as ‘How Sweet it is to be Reclined’.

Asklepios

There is a small museum on the site with a good collection of artefacts and this statue of Asklepius. After a walk round this exhibition we pedalled back to base at high speed, with a force 5 wind behind us.

Tagged with: Catalonia, Empuries, Greeks, illa mateua, L'Escala, motorhome, photography, Romans, Spain
Posted in - Spain, 2015 Spring, Catalonia, L'Escala

Pals

Posted on March 28, 2015 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

Route to Pals

On Saturday we set off at 10 am for the 11 mile bike ride to Pals, a well preserved Gothic town to the east of Girona. Our route is in red. We just retraced our steps on the homeward leg.

River Ter

The trip starts alongside the River Ter, higher than usual after the recent rain, with the snow-capped pyrenees in the distance.

Fontanilles

Leaving the Ter along its tributary the Daro, we passed through the pretty villages of Gualta and Fontanilles.

Fontclara

We hit the next village, Fontclara, about 11 am and stopped for a quick photoshoot and terrier walk.

Fontclara- Water

Ancient pretty water dispensing thingy in Fontclara

Approaching Pals

The route continued along quiet roads and tracks until we spotted Pals on the next hilltop, so a bit of a hot pull up the hill in the midday sun.

Cobbled Streets- Pals

The gothic precinct of Pals is a maze of narrow, winding, cobbled streets. And very picturesque it is too. And never start a sentence with a conjunction.

Church-Pals

The church is, apparently, a mixture of gothic, romanesque and baroque styles. It dates from at least 994, if not before.

Pals

Castle Grounds, now privately owned.

Tower of the Hours

This tower has housed a bell, sounding out the hours, for many centuries.

Pals

This is one of the many stepped walkways separating the old buildings.

Pals-Looking up from the Main Square

The whole of the gothic precinct has been immaculately restored.

Pals-Nia

Antic Casino

After walking the old quarter, and rehydrating with coke and beer, we cycled down the hill for lunch in the Antic casino. This I think translates as ‘The Old Casino’. It was recommended by Jean, a friend we met at the campsite, and it was indeed a scrumptious meal. I had chicken and mushroom risotto and Nia feasted on beef wrapped in a very thin pastry in a rich sauce.

Lunch Saturday

Sorry…another lunch picture. On Saturday, after a long walk down to the beach with Penny and Colin we cycled to the restaurant we like outside Gualta, with Chris and Jen, and Peter and Jean, for another blow out.