Cabo de Gata to Navajas

sunrise cabotonavajas

We set off back towards the UK today, with a great Cabo de Gata sunrise to see us off.

olivegrove

We stopped for lunch somewhere near Jumilla, next to an olive orchard, the trees laden with fruit.

lorca

and passed by the castle overlooking Lorca. ( I know …the windscreen needs cleaning).

mavisinnavajas

After stopping for diesel, and a humungous sack of oranges, just outside Valencia, we parked up at Camping Altomira. This is a terraced site close to Navajas, a mountain village to the North of Valencia.

navajas

There is a walking/cycle track along the old railway line, just next to the campsite; this is the view of Navajas from the walk.

navoldstaion

Further along the line is the old railway station,

tunnel

And then the tunnel.

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Posted in - Spain, 2013 Autumn, Navajas, Valencia

Cabo de Gata…Fellow Campers and Other Wild Life

Meal-at-Antonioscrop

We had a “Menu del Dia” at Antonio’s restaurant, a short cycle ride from the campsite, on Wednesday. Antonio is the guy on my right…his wife cooked the most amazing paella….worth travelling to the South of Spain for that alone. Each dish is carried to the table by Antonio with an accompanying “Mmmmmm”…and whatever the spanish for delicious is. And he’s right.

Trevor-&-Stuartcrop

Trevor and Stuart en route to the restaurant.

boar

foxy2

We saw these two on an early evening walk. There are a lot of wild boars around but they keep their heads down during the day. We saw Mrs Fox a bit later…a bit smaller and more gingery.

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bird

flamingo

Some of the birdlife.

goats

A large herd of goats forage over the sand dunes each day.

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Max….black after jumping in to that nice cool Rambla mud.

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Sunset over the Med.

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Posted in - Spain, 2013 Autumn, Andalucia, Cabo de Gata

Cabo de Gata…Low flying flamingos

route-to-caba-de-gata

We are in Cabo de Gata, a national park in Southern Spain, chilling in temperatures of over 30 deg C most days. The campsite is about a mile from the village of Cabo de Gata, a short bike ride along the beach.

CDGfront

cdgsunset

The village of Cabo de Gata

We highly recommend the campsite, far from the fleshpots of the Costa Brava (but close to a very good tapas restaurant) and home to a number of expats who migrate here for the winter and who have made us very welcome.

tenniscourt

bobtennis

petertennis

Tennis this morning, on the campsite court
Bob is the professional looking one; I’m the one trying to jump out of the way of the ball.

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flamingo

flamingos2

shovellor

There are a number of salinas, or salt pans, and ramblas dotted about. There is a large flock of flamingoes on the rambla near the campsite, with an assortment of ducks, stints and other fowl.

max2
Max would dearly love to play with the ducks but isn’t allowed; apart from other considerations the rambla mud is not particularly fragrant. Quite the opposite in fact.

sunset
Sunset over the Rambla

marketproduce

There is a great vegetable market in Cabo; these are some of our spoils from a trip out on Saturday.

church

churchinside

This is the pretty church a mile to the east of cabo de Gata.

moonrise

niabike

Cycling back after another tough day.

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Posted in - Spain, 2013 Autumn, Andalucia, Cabo de Gata

Overnight in Oliva. The fish are safe.

route-to-oliva
Camping Rio-Mar, near Oliva,  was a brief halt on the way to Cabo de Gata.

rio-mar

It is a small and friendly site, and some high-level shoehorning was needed to fit Mavis in.

mavisriomar

We ate in the site restaurant, over ordered ….a plate of prawns turned out to be about a whole fishing boats worth….but the dogs did well out of it.

net

The site is by the delta of the River Mar and the locals were throwing their nets out as the sun rose, with great concentration, but the fish seemed safe. Didn’t spot any being caught, but Hey…Gets the guys out of the house/washing up etc.

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Posted in - Spain, 2013 Autumn, Oliva, Valencia

Peixet de Bou? Eels on toast anyone?

map
Heading South

palms
niabike

harbour

This is L’Ampolla, a small fishing village about 40 miles south-west of Barcelona, on the mediterranean coast, just above the river Ebro delta.

pillbox

L’Ampolla was of strategic importance in the Spanish civil war; this is a pillbox from that era.

perros

As always the dogs…los perros…attracted much interest.

menu

We stopped for lunch in a backstreet cafe. What is Peixet de Bou? Torradas? Only one way to find out.

pescado
Peixet de Bou

tos
Torradas

The red paste was described enigmatically as “Meat and other species” Not much help. But very tasty. The squiggly things were anchovies. Not eels as we thought initially (the cafe is renowned, we had been told, for its eels on toast).

harbour2
The Harbour

cloud

sunrise
Sunrise

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Posted in - Spain, 2013 Autumn, Catalonia, L'Ampolla

101 Uses For a Lamp Post.

route-to-bonansa

We have had poor wifi connections recently so the blog is a bit behind; we are currently in Spain.

After Domme we visited the chateau of Castelnaud, a few miles west down the dordogne valley.

castelhigh

It is a lovely castle, with commanding views over the Dordogne, which was destroyed and rebuilt many times over the last 9 or so centuries. It was in the thick of the fighting in the hundred years war and was for many years an English possession.

multigun

cannon

bludgeon

It is now a museum of military history and houses a selection of bizarre weapons; the beast at the top was built on a design of Leonardo da Vinci and seems to be able to fire in many directions at once. Handy if you are being attacked at night I guess. Must get one for the motorhome.

castefromcarpark

castelnaudtrebuchets

There is also a good collection of siege engines or trebuchets, for hurling boulders and other projectiles at the enemy’s chateau.
ns5

First stop after Castelnaud was Toulouse, a rather grim campsite in a run down area, but close to a water sports park where we watched nautiskiing, as they call it.

ns3

The guy in red spotted I was taking pictures, waved to me, and started doing some quite impressive back and forward flips.

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ns2

 

lampost 

There was a gypsy camp just next to our campsite, with loads of rather haphazard wires going from a lamp post in to their site. While we walking by some guy walked nonchalantly out from one of the caravans and gave the wiring a good poke with a long stick….good to see a master electrician at work.

mj1

Next stop Montrejeau, in the foothills of the Pyrenees, for an overnight stop.

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Then through the Pyrenees to Camping Baliera near Bonansa, a great site just over the Spanish border.

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Mavis in the trees at Baliera.

castane

castanevillage

castel-from-walk

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There is a short walk up into the hills behind the campsite to this old castle in the village of Castane (population : 6).

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Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Aquitaine, Domme

Colin’s thoughts on Domme.

dommesign

bastide
(Colin: “Oh No! Not another Bastide town to walk round”).

 

We parked at La Perpetuum, a campsite on the banks of the Dordogne about 2km from Domme, in the sunshine. Domme is an old fortified medieval town, or Bastide, up on a hill overlooking the river. After parking Mavis, we walked along the river and then up a gentle track through the trees to Domme.

walktodomme

Ivy covered ruins along path to Domme.

dordfromwalk

The Dordogne, looking back from the walk.

niaportetours pjwall

We paused at the Porte de Tours, the old fortified village entrance, famous for having had the Knights Templars imprisoned here in the early 1300’s. There is graffiti on the inside of the towers, said to have been inscribed by the Knights.

pjportetours

niastreetdomme

plaque

roofdomme

frenchgate

dommesquare

Domme was pretty deserted; this is the main square at lunchtime.

dordogne

bridge

View over the Dordogne valley from the North facing parapet of the village.

hotdogs

Hot Dogs

frenchwindows

French Windows

housedomme

Cottage by the Botanic Garden.
botanicjardin

Botanic Garden
painter

There were several artists at work in the Botanic Garden. Note Colin on a sandwich hunt.

gibson

This is Gibson, retired, from New Jersey, I asked how long he had been working on his water colour; “Oh, 2 hours. And 35 years.”

grottedomme

On the last afternoon we walked through the amazing 400 m of stalactite and stalacmite filled caves below Domme, to emerge on the cliff face 20m below the top. We were the only two visitors on the guided tour and so had a free French lesson from Florence, the guide. We have little French, she had little English, so it was fun. We struggled with the translation of deer….there is a deers backbone in the cave….eventually worked it out when she said, “Conaissez vous Bambi?…C’est Papa of Bambi”

max

I took Max for a game of catch after the walk.

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Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Aquitaine, Domme

Early Modern Man and the Gouffre de Proumeyssac

cliffs

We are in Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil, a little town in the Vezere valley, which has become the de facto prehistoric capital of the region. The town is built under dramatic overhanging limestone cliffs, undercut over the millennia by the flow of water which also hollowed out numerous caves, many of which were inhabited over the last 40,000 years or so.

cromaghotel

In 1886 the geologist Lartet found 5 ‘Cro-Magnon’ skeletons in a rock shelter here. Whilst still in common use, the term is now being replaced by ‘early modern Man’, because they were our own species, as opposed to earlier varieties such as Neanderthal man.

museum

Museum of Prehistory

bison

We walked through the museum of Prehistory, saw some much earlier stuff….a cast of the skeleton of Lucy from 1.3 million years ago (How did they know her name?…clever these archaeologists) and loads of other interesting stuff, including a skeleton of this old bison.. We watched a video about how to make a flint knife and then cook with it….that’ll come in handy one day.

niaehm2

ehm

There is a great viewing gallery on the roof of the museum, complete with Early Modern Man, surveying his Kingdom.

fortchurch

pillar

This is the 12th century fortified church in Les Eyzies, complete with marble pillars scavenged from an earlier roman building.

gouffre

gouffre2

The next day we walked through the Gouffre de Proumeyssac, a large limestone cavern filled with stalactites and other large calcific concretions, formed by the calcium rich water pouring through over the centuries. The water is now being directed over porcelain ducks and other objets d’art, so as to calcify them before being offered for sale on the way out. Not sure they improve on the overall effect within the cavern…

nia

Cycling back for a very good meal in the campsites restaurant….Camping La Riviere…highly recommended. The French for a brilliant meal by the way is “Cosmique!”.

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Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Aquitaine, Les Eyzies-de-Tayac-Sireuil

Lawrie and Cheryl

lebugue

We are in Le Bugue…..X marks the spot.
bergtolabugue
We set off from Bergerac following the Dordogne, lunched at the aire in Lalinde, then moved on to stay at Les Trois Caupains campsite in Le Bugue.
weir

vezerefrombridge
Le Bugue is a little town on the Vézère, which is a tributary of the Dordogne.

lebuguepond lebuguebridge

Walking around Le Bugue we bumped in to Lawrie, from Michigan, who spends a few months each year here in her lovely house on the Grande Rue. She lives next door to Cheryl, also a temporary migrant from the US.

3fountains

This is Cheryls house in Le Bugue, easily spotted from Lawrie’s description by the three fountains. They kindly gave us tea.

lawrie
Lawrie
cheryl
Cheryl

bara-bahau

The next day we cycled up through Le Bugue to Bara-Bahau, a cave about half a mile beyond Le Bugue. The Vezere valley is a treasure trove of prehistoric finds; the famous cave paintings at Lascaux are at the head of the valley, and date from 30,000 years ago. This cave was inhabited 17,000 years ago and contains a plethora of engravings of bison, horses, other animals and the odd phallic symbol. The engravers scraped out the outlines of the animals on the soft limestone, using flints and sharpened bones, and utilising the natural reliefs on the cave walls for the stomachs, chests and other bulgy bits.
bearsteeeth
The cave was the home for hibernating cave bears before man swung by and there are claw marks scattered throughout the caves. These are bears teeth and parts of mandibles  found in the cave.
bulls
Two bulls kindly posed for us on the way back to Mavis.

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Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Aquitaine, Le Bugue

Bergerac….A nose for wine

cyrano

We are in Bergerac, home of the legendary comic hero Cyrano de Bergerac and important wine trading port on the Dordogne. Bergerac grew rich over 7 centuries of shipping wine down to Bordeaux.

bergnewbridge

We stayed at camping La Pelouse which is on the opposite bank to the old town, and just downstream of this bridge, which takes you over to the town in about ten minutes.

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View from Bridge

oldbridge1

Remains of Original 13th century bridge.

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bergflowers

Bergerac Housing

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cloisters

housebetter

More of the lovely old half timbered housing.

museum

Museum

hydroelectric

Old Hydroelectric generator on display in the Old Town

ceps

gourds

stall

toms

violins

legs

The Wednesday market in the Place Gambetta. Everything from ceps (look to be half eaten already) to violins, and legs.

gabarre

We took a trip on a Gabarre, a replica of the sailing barges which carried wine down to Bordeaux, and wood for the wine casks from the mountains of the Auvergne.

corm

heron

kingfisher

Riverside Birds

catfish

Checking for Catfish.

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Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Aquitaine, Bergerac

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