Charles the Bald.

Posted on April 19, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 1 Comment

As often happens we found this charming campsite by chance. We had planned to stay overnight on the aire at Pont de L’Arche but when we got here mid afternoon on the Wednesday before Easter the aire and adjacent car park were full. Camp Eure is just next to the aire. It is a pleasant, basic, friendly, municipal site on the banks of the Eure, a tributary of the Seine. The tariff is very reasonable at about €12 per night including electricity.

GPS: N 49.305825 E 1.155914

View Up river

The site is at Pont de L’Arche, just to the east of Rouen. This is the view from the site looking east showing the D2015 bridge. Coming from Rouen turn left immediately you cross the Eure then drive under the bridge to get to the aire and campsite.

Pont de L’Arche is a pretty medieval town with scattered vestiges of its original fortifications. Fortresses were built on a wooden bridge here by Charles IInd, King of West France 823-877 (aka Charles the Bald) to protect the town from invaders from the North.

Notre Dame des Arts

Built in 1499, this impressive church overlooks the Eure.

The church from the campsite, catching the evening light.

One of the many well preserved half timbered medieval houses in the town.

The old Boulangerie

The Seine

We parked overlooking the Eure which joins the Seine about 100 metres from the site; the confluence is seen in the distance here. There are good riverside walks in both directions.

The Locals

Heading East along the Eure

On Friday we took the cycle path to Poses, a small village up river which was originally populated by Seine bargemen.

Gustave Eiffel, of Tower fame, built this weir in 1855 to control water levels in the Seine.

Tug boat “Fauvette”

Moored on the riverside at Poses is the old steam tug “Fauvette”, built in Cologne in 1928, scrapped after many years work then restored by volunteers at Poses in 1987.

Tagged with: camp eure, cycling, france, Mavis, motorhome, photography, pont de l'arche
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Pont de l'Arche, Upper Normandy

Lake District to Cake District

Posted on April 16, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

We set off from Cumbria at 6.30 pm on Tuesday and by 11am this morning I was buying the first Tartelette aux Pommes of the trip…Parfait.

Tartelette aux Pommes

We woke up on the aire at Wissant (about 10 miles south of Calais) this morning at 8am French time. We had travelled down country yesterday on the M1, for a change from the M6, quick and quiet. There was very little traffic when we hit the M25 about midnight. We usually listen to an audio book on the long stretches, yesterday it was ‘Far Eastern Tales’ by Somerset Maugham and also a bit of Stephen Fry. We caught the 3.27 am train, popped up in France 25 minutes later and were on the Wissant Aire by 5.30, French time. All the motorhome spaces were full so we nabbed a coach space which did the trick. The great thing about Wissant is that it is free so there is no early morning knock on the door to interrupt the beauty sleep.

Location of Aire at Wissant

On the Aire at Wissant

Market at Wissant

There was a street market in Wissant on the Wednesday. Good opportunity to stock up on spicy olives and other essentials.

Beach this way

Next stop the beach avec les chiens.

Sea Dog

The Beach at Wissant

Wissant, a kite surfing centre, looks out over the sands onto the Atlantic breakers.

On Street Parking

There is a relaxed approach to on street parking here.

Tower overlooking Wissant

Tagged with: Aire, border terriers, Colin, france, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Wissant
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Nord-Pas de Calais, Wissant

Arles… I am in the naughty corner

Posted on April 1, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

We left Saintes Maries de la Mer and headed inland to Arles, driving a scenic route through the Camargue. The plan had been to stay at Camping Le City in Arles, handily close to the centre, but it was firmly closed when we arrived, despite an opening day of March 1st given in the caravan club guide. It looked a little down at heel and is maybe undergoing a change of ownership…hopefully it will open at some stage.

Camping Le City, Arles

We moved on to the quayside at Arles where the motorhome parking is helpfully marked and guarded by two stone lions.

A good landmark in Arles is the Roman Amphitheatre which we found easily by walking along the quayside for a short distance then turning left up the Rue de Amphitheatre.

This massive structure was built in about 90 AD and could hold about 20,000 spectators.

A little further on is the Roman theatre. It was built in the first century AD and although much of the stonework has been recycled into other building projects over the centuries, it remains an impressive structure. The two remaining corinthian columns (there were 27) give a flavour of the striking building it must have been in its heyday.

We strolled through the old quarter of Arles.

And stopped for coffee on the worryingly named Boulevard des Lices, opposite the Tourist Office.

This is the hospital where Van Gogh spent some time; he was famously admitted here with a severed ear after a dispute with his friend Paul Gauguin outside a brothel.

Van Gogh

The courtyard of the hospital building has been transformed into the ‘Espace van Gogh’ with a central garden recreated as it was in the 1880s when he made his famous painting of the garden, whilst he was a patient.

We walked back past the Place de La Republique.

This is Constantin’s bath house, built in the 4th century AD in honour of the Emperor Constantin (the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity, he founded New Rome on the Straits of Bosphorus. Renamed Constantinople, it became the centre of the Byzantine Empire and is now Istambul).

We walked back along Le Rhône to Mavis.

We spent the night at Camping Bienheureuse, at Raphele-les-Arles. This was our first campsite since we left the UK 10 days or so ago. We arrived mid afternoon to find the reception closed and the barrier down. Stopping in front of the barrier (we had to) I walked up to the English manager’s bungalow, to be given a good ticking off, through clouds of cigarette smoke, for stopping in front of reception and blocking their road! There was a plumbing problem and no water or drainage; we were advised to drive back to Arles to drain the grey water tank! So, overall, not the best site we’ve found.

Tagged with: amphitheatre, Arles, Bordeaux, cycling, dordogne, france, Mavis, medoc, motorhome, photography, van gogh
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Arles, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Saint Louis

Posted on March 21, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 4 Comments

We spent a couple of days travelling down France, stopping at aires near Orleans and then in the Auvergne, then arrived at the medieval walled town of Aigues-Mortes, on the edge of the Camargue, in Provence.

We camped in the aire/car park just on the edge of the town.

View of Mavis from the ramparts, almost on our own by the morning ‘tho it was quite a busy car-park when we arrived on Sunday afternoon.
Aigues-Mortes is surrounded by water on three sides and gained its name from the stagnant, or dead, waters where it was built, in the times when the Camargue was a collection of swamps and marshes.

The town is of historical interest because it was the port from which Louis IXth, better known as Saint Louis, set sail for the 7th and 8th crusades. He was to die of disease shortly after disembarking in Tunisia in 1270.

Plaque commemorating the crusades.

Nia and Colin enjoying a rest in the Place St Louis.

Peter on ramparts.

Tower at one corner of the town..the walls and towers are all very well preserved.

Boulangerie. Lovely tartlette au Pommes.

Aigues-Mortes at night. We had a lovely meal at one of the restaurants just off the Place St Louis.

Lion guarding one of the gate towers. Why is he winking?

View looking to the South, over the Etang du Roi, from the ramparts. The white hills in the background are piles of salt, still a major industry here. In the past the area was ruled by the monks of Psalmody Abbey, who became wealthy from the sale of the salt harvested here by evaporation.

The Burgundy tower in one corner of the town. Apparently the bodies of the Burgundian garrison killed in some long ago feud were salted down here.

We moved on to Saintes Maries de la Mer, on the southern tip of the Camargue. It is packed with birdlife making the most of the extensive salt-pans and lakes.

There is a long cycle ride along the dike to the east of Stes Maries.

Camped on the beach at Stes Maries, overlooking the Mediterranean.

The church at Stes Maries, catching the morning light.
A minor problem has arisen back in Cumbria, so we are now wending are way back up through France to return home for a few weeks…we will return to Provence at some stage.

Tagged with: Aigues-Mortes, blog, border terriers, Colin, cycling, france, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Provence, St Louis, Stes Maries
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Aigues-Mortes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Heading for Provence

Posted on March 13, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

First stop en route to Provence was Portsmouth, for a few minor jobs on Mavis. (No, that’s not Portsmouth above, I thought I’d start the blog with a Château picture)

The dogs had breakfast in front of the dealers and were then taken for a long walk around Langstone Harbour.

We spent the night at Fishery Creek, a friendly site at the far end of Hayling Island, shared a chinese takeaway with Nick Lavies, a mutual friend from way back, then set off at 9am the following morning for the Channel Tunnel.

Nia drove us onto the train and we popped up in France one ham sandwich and a cup of tea later. Very civilised.

We stopped at an aire at Neufchatel en Bray…here we are in solitary splendour, though we did meet an English couple on the first night, jazz singers on their way back from Portugal.

The aire at Neufchatel is 20 yards from the Dieppe to Forges les Eaux voie verte, or cycleway. We tend to cycle too far for the dogs to run the whole distance so we have a dog cart, as shown below.

Nia has a collection of flags; we just have to work out which country we’re in and fly the appropriate banner.

The cycleway is a converted disused railway line.

This is us heading in the direction of Dieppe, yesterday. (Does any geek out there know what PK 140.000 means?)

We stopped at a station, conveniently converted into a wine bar, on the way.

Today we headed inland, first stop Mesnieres en Bray, with a watermill, and the Château that you’ve already seen.

The château builders clearly had too much time on their hands, or had imbibed too much of the vin rouge….this wall seems to have a roof on it.

Another odd roof.

There’s always interesting stuff on a French cycle ride.

Hen perched on ram’s back.

Helpful sign pointing to a view point (we think….not sure what the stamp is all about). Come to think of it, it’s pointing in two directions..??

Church at Mesnierès…they do do their churches well.

Ready to move on tomorrow.

Tagged with: border terriers, Channel tunnel, Colin, cycling, france, Mavis, motorhome, Neufchatel en Bray, Normandy, photography
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Neufchâtel-en-Bray, Upper Normandy

Vendôme….The Last Post, and Caption Competition.

Posted on November 4, 2013 by Peter and Nia — 4 Comments

We are on the aire at Honfleur, in a gale, two days away from the ferry back to Dover. So this is likely to be the last post of the trip.
We have come via Vendôme, a lovely town on the N10, just North of Tours.

Parked up on the Aire at Vendôme, near a park and the river.

There are many well preserved part timbered houses here.

Vendome is surrounded by rivers on both sides.

15th Century Monk’s washhouse.

Porte-St-Georges…the old gate to the town.

Abbaye de la Trinité

Buttresses on the Abbaye.

Abbaye Gardens.

Vendome from the Chateau ruins overlooking the Town.

Rochambeau, famous son of Vendome, whose statue was erected here by the Cinncinati society, in recognition of his part in the defeat of the English in the War of Independence; he led a French army of 7,000 men at the siege of Yorktown, the final important battle of the war.

After the capture of Yorktown General Cornwallis and many British were taken prisoner and Britain agreed peace terms.

Fast forward 150 years and there is a plaque of thanks in the main square commemorating the Royal Flying Corps stay here in the first world war.

Statue in one of the parks….Caption suggestions please……

Tagged with: france, Mavis, motorhome, photography, rfc, rochambeau, vendome
Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Centre, Vendôme

Rocamadour

Posted on November 3, 2013 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

We drove North to the Dordogne, on Thursday.

This is Rocamadour, an amazing village and church built in to the side of a limestone gorge in the Eastern Dordogne.

We parked Mavis at the top of the gorge, close to the village of L’Hospilatet, just behind the old chateau. There were a few other motorhomes spending the night here.

There is a quiet limestone lane behind the chateau, perfect for walking the dogs.

This is the pilgrimage church of Notre Dame, rebuilt to its current state in 1479.

We took the funicular railway halfway down the gorge side, dogs and all.

And stopped for a glass of vino blanco in the sun, in a restaurant frequented also by the local clergy.

This is the main street of Rocamadour which slopes down to the valley floor.

Ivy covered house in lower Rocamadour.

We climbed back to the top, dropped the dogs in to guard the motorhome, and spent 2 euros each to get on to the chateau ramparts at the top of the gorge.

Chateau from below.

Looking down.

The Chateau clock.

On the top.

The guard dog. Just pretending to be asleep.

Tagged with: border terriers, dordogne, france, Mavis, motorhome, photography, rocamadour
Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Midi-Pyrénées, Rocamadour

Andorra

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

We crossed the Spanish border with Andorra on Wednesday the 30th of October. Andorra is a tiny principality high in the Pyrenees.

Luckily the police were looking the other way when we drove through….we weren’t stopped.

Approaching the Pyrenees.

Nia did the hairpin bends, I did the photoshoot. There was snow on the roads as we got up to the top of the pass (7,500 feet).

We parked for lunch just over the top at Pas de La Casa, a ski resort close to the border with France.

We stopped for the night at Ax les Thermes, in France. This is a ski resort village on the Ariège river…a lovely spot.

Tagged with: Andorra, ax les thermes, border terriers, france, Mavis, motorhome, photography
Posted in - France, 2013 Autumn, Andorra, Ax-les-Thermes, Midi-Pyrénées

Nia’s Birthday Lunch

Posted on November 2, 2013 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Thank you very much to our good friends Bob, Sandra and Karen for my lovely birthday lunch at Cabo de Gata (this is an out of order post).

This is Bob’s delicious signature dish…tomatoes with feta cheese, basil and garlic drizzled with balsamic vinegar and olive oil…..I hope I haven’t given away a secret recipe here.