Sully-sur-Loire

Posted on May 27, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Route to Sully sur Loire

We drove 80 miles north west , with the Loire on our left all the way, to Camping ‘Le Jardin de Sully’ at Saint Père sur Loire (N 47.77008 E 2.36191). This is a small ACSI campsite on the north side of the Loire, opposite Sully-sur-Loire. We are parked about 50 yards from the river bank and a small gate in the fence gives access to the walking and cycle path which runs along the river here.

Chateau at Sully-sur-Loire

Coypu

Carp

The castle moat is packed with carp, and the occasional Coypu, or ‘Ragondin’ as they are called here.

Ragondin

Drawbridge to Château

Looking Upstream from the Bridge over the Loire

The campsite is on a ‘Grande Randonée’ or GR, one of the national French footpaths.

Circuit Training

There is a long loop of suggested exercises at intervals attached to this segment of GR.

Not the Advised Technique

I couldn’t get any of the other 4 members of the party to jump over with me.

Loire by Velo

In the afternoon we cycled a section of the Loire by Bike; the long cycleway extending along much of the Loire. We went Sully-sur-Loire, St Florent, St Gondon and back, about 26 miles in all.

View from ‘La Loire à Vélo’.

Cornflowers

The cycle ride is almost traffic free, and runs through lovely villages and countryside.

Tagged with: Centre, cycling, france, le jardin de sully, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Sully sur loire
Posted in - France, 2013 Spring, Pays-de-la-Loire, Sully-sur-Loire

Stripped!

Posted on May 26, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 5 Comments

Route to Nevers

We drove an easy 60 miles up the N7 to Nevers and stopped there for a couple of nights at Camping Nevers (N46.98222 E 2.36191). This is a small and friendly site on the south bank of the Loire, looking over the river to old Nevers on the opposite bank.

View from Mavis

Campsite from opposite bank of the Loire

The site is very close to a cycle ride along a short canal. This leads to the veloroute along the lateral canal of the Loire. There is also an excellent cycle shop…La roué Libre…about half a mile from the campsite. A back axle nut had stripped its thread (overloading issue related to three well fed terriers) and the guys in the shop cleaned it up and replaced the nut and washer. On the spot, no messing. €2 please!

We met a delightful couple of cyclists (Nia: ‘Do you speak English’. Maureen: ‘I am English’) at the campsite who gave us directions to the cycling. John and Maureen, it turned out, live about 15 miles from us, in Cumbria.

Feeder canal to Lateral canal of the Loire.

Lateral Canal of Loire.

Viaduct over the Allier

After about 8 km, heading west, we arrived at this viaduct which crosses 200 feet or so above the River Allier, which is heading north, shortly to join the Loire.
Spot the rainclouds? We were caught in a thunderstorm on the way back, just as Nia got a puncture. We found a bridge to shelter under while we fixed it.

Looking north along the Allier

The lock which drops boats down from the viaduct over the Allier

There are masses of house martins here roosting under the viaduct, and quite a number of terns.

One good Turn.

Fishing

The Loire is rich in bird life. We saw this guy busy knocking holes in a rotten tree by the canal side.

Black Woodpecker

Swifts

The sky above the bridge at Nevers was packed with swifts.

The Loire from the bridge at Nevers

Nevers has a good selection of old buildings.

Ducal Palace

10th Century Church

Cathedral from the north

There is an impressive 6-16 century cathedral, its tower currently swathed in scaffolding.

Des res in Nevers. Facing south, overlooking the river.

Tagged with: Centre, cycling, france, motorhome, Nevers, photography
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Bourgogne, Nevers

The Ancient Mariner

Posted on May 25, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Route to St Pourcain sur Sioule

We drove 144 miles north from Comps to the aire at Malzieu Ville (N 44.85515 E 3.33346). We took the N 106 which is a very twisty and exciting road through the mountains. Too exciting perhaps….the French HGV’s thunder along what is a pretty narrow two lane road for most of its length. La Malzieu Ville is a delightful town just off the A 75 and a good night halt.

Aire at La Malzieu Ville.

The free aire has water and drainage and is close to a very good walk along a river.

Behind the Aire

There is a pretty medieval town about 2 minutes walk away…very handy for the morning baguette and blueberry pie.

The next morning we set off on another short hop (123 miles) to the aire at St Pourcain sur Sioule. ( N 46.31370 E 3.161120 ).

Aire at St Pourcain sur Sioule

This aire is nicely situated in front of the River Sioule but was very busy. Poor Nia was driving and as she prepared to reverse in to a narrowish space a large Frenchman with an impressive beard, out of which clouds of smoke were billowing, popped out of a motorhome and started to issue instructions, backed up with much pointing and arm waving. After a while it became clear that the smoke was coming from a pipe, almost hidden within the beard. We christened him the ancient Mariner.
The aire must have been short of entertainment that day and several other helpers, of various nationalities, appeared and added their advice (in assorted languages) and gesticulations. Some just stood and watched. Nia was probably the only one there with an HGV licence. Mavis was soon parked; the temptation to drive over any toes was avoided.

Rain was threatening and we set off to walk around the town, and find a cafe for a glass of vin blanc each.

On the Sioule

Tagged with: france, La Malzieu Ville, Mavis, motorhome, photography, St Pourcain sur Sioule
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Auvergne, St Pourcain-sur-Sioule

Comps

Posted on May 24, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Route to Comps

Just a brief entry today; we have had a few days without wifi and I am writing this from a McDonalds, usually a good source of broadband but it is very slow at the moment.

We stopped for a night at an aire in Comps (N 43.854130 E 4.607860) parked looking out over the Rhone. There were only a few motorhomes here but a succession of guys appeared selling fresh fruit and vegetables; we bought a kilo of luscious cherries for €3, tomatoes, and some lavender honey.

The Aire at Comps

View from the Living Room Window.

Local Bird

By the Rhone

A few weeks ago we were on an aire several hundred miles upstream on the same river, the Rhine at Breisach.

Tagged with: Aire, aires, Comps, france, Haute-Provence, Mavis, motorhome, photography
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Comps, Languedoc-Roussillon

Gordes

Posted on May 22, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

We moved west a few miles to Gordes, an old town with Roman roots on a hill overlooking the Luberon valley.

Route to Gordes

We stayed at the aire to the west of Gordes (N 43.914142 E 5.197184) . Surrounded on several sides by sheer limestone cliffs and with a Gendarmerie at the entrance, it must be one of the more secure aires of the region.

Aire at Gordes

There is a good dog walk to the north of the aire, up a steepish path between tall limestone walls. It leads eventually to some very expensive gated properties set in old olive groves with a nicely landscaped helicopter landing pad.

Renaissance Château

The château, rebuilt in the 15th century, overlooks the main square.

There are many pretty steep pebbled ‘calades’ (alleyways) which lead you from one boutique to another….it is a bit of a tourist centre.

There are good views over the Luberon valley from the edge of the town, very blowy on the day of our visit. This was the notorious Mistral, a powerful wind which comes down off the mountains of Provence from time to time. Apparently it blows all the clouds away and is responsible for the very high number of sunny days down here.

Tagged with: Aire, france, Gordes, Haute-Provence, Luberon, Mavis, mistral, motorhome, photography
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Gordes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur

Roussillon

Posted on May 21, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 1 Comment

Route to Roussillon

We drove the short distance from Rustrel to Roussillon and stayed in the Aire ( N 43.896452 E 5.295878) ….a large car park, quiet, €9 for the night.

Aire at Roussillon

After lunch we headed into Roussillon, about 1/4 of a mile from the aire. Roussillon is a lovely town perched on top of ochre coloured cliffs.

Roussillon

There was an antique market in full swing when we pitched up.

Brocante

The dogs had their pictures taken.

In the Limelight.

Sentier des Ochres

There is a good walk through the ochre landscape; busy but worth the €2-50 we had to fork out. The dogs went free. We met a group of schoolchildren, one of whom said very politely to Colin…’Comment Cava?’ I had to interject ‘Il ne parle pas Francais’ and there was a positive barrage of ‘How are you?’ Good afternoon and other English greetings from the whole group. Colin was understandably nonplussed.

Popular Walk

Mairie

After the walk we headed into the old town and had a drink in a small café by the Mairie, whilst being nicely toasted by the afternoon sun.

Drinks Stop

Ceramics on display.

There are a lot of crafts shops and art galleries here.

Many of the buildings are a lovely rich red colour, reflecting the local materials.

We went back the following morning for another look around the town.

Not a very brave Bear.

We were followed by a stray labrador and Colin got a bit worried and had to be carried! All the way back to the motorhome (….very persistent labrador).

Tagged with: Colin, france, Haute-Provence, Luberon, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Provence, Roussillon
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Roussillon

Colorado de Rustrel. Mick Jagger.

Posted on May 19, 2014 by Peter and Nia — 2 Comments

Overnight in the Colorado de Rustrel car park.

We drove about 10 km to the north of Apt to stay at Rustrel, at the recommendation of the girl in the reception at Camping Luberon.

Chateau at Rustrel

Rustrel is a small hillside village, with the requisite chateau, in this case 17th century, overlooking the colourful cliffs which provided employment for generations of iron ore and ochre miners. The walk through the colourful landscape now generates a tourist income.

Path to the Ochre Walk.

Hot Dogs

Aqueduct..Much water was needed to wash the ochre from the sand.

La Rinsoulette

It was a hot walk…the last section through acres of sun-baked sand was called ‘The Sahara’…and there was a small café towards the end of the walk, well placed to resuscitate the walkers.

Rehydration

Alastair Merry

We got talking to the delightful Alastair Merry, from Avignon. An interesting life…He studied architecture at Magdalene College, Cambridge, worked as an architect for 10 years or so around the world then changed track into the world of music, meeting Mick Jagger along the way. He started a band..Blancheval…and also plays as a one man band. https://myspace.com/alastairmerry

Tagged with: Alastair Merry, Colorado de Rustrel, france, Haute-Provence, Mavis, motorhome, Ochre, photography, Rustrel
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Rustrel

Saignon

Posted on May 18, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Saignon

On Friday we walked up to Saignon from the campsite. Saignon is famous for its rock, see above, a landmark visible from far away.

GR 92

The GR 92 footpath is a well defined track leading up to Saignon from the road about 300 metres down from the campsite. We stopped at Saignon….carry on walking and you end up in Spain. The GR stands for Grande Randonée. (Big Walk?).

View from the Path

Chat dans Fenetre

Saignon is a pretty village, dominated by the rock at its summit.

Chapelle

The Rock

You can climb to the top of the rock.

Lunch on the Rock

This guy was impressing his girlfriend with lunch on the top of the rock….we saw them later, cruising through the village in his Porsche Boxster.

Coming down from the Rock

Resting

Walking through the Village

From the fortifications around the rock.

The rock is surrounded by old stonework, much of it covered in flowers.

Looking over the Luberon from the Village.

Guard Duty

Le petit Café

We stopped for lunch at Le Petit Café, owned by Andrew, a charming ex-pat, originally from Birmingham. Apparently business gets a little slow in the Winter so he moves down to the Carribbean then to do a bit of gourmet cookery. Not a bad life.

Andrew

I had a mixed salad with goats cheese, Nia had a salmon and dill salad, washed down with a pichet of vin blanc. It was absolutely delicious and very reasonable….we can recommend the restaurant wholeheartedly to any visitors to Saignon. We also chatted to the lovely waitress, from the States. Her Father had been bought up in Ithaca; its a small world.

Old Cars. Old Buildings.

The Footpath

Tagged with: france, Haute-Provence, le petit cafe, Luberon, Mavis, motorhome, photography, Provence, Saignon
Posted in - France, 2014 Spring, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, Saignon

Hilltop Villages of the Luberon

Posted on May 17, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Camping La Rivière

We moved a few miles to camping La Rivière near St Maime, one of the hilltop villages of the Luberon mountains.

It is a pleasant, informal, site with large pitches; we parked in front of a lake.

Max

There is a river running through the campsite.

House in St Maime

Chapel at St Maime

St Maime

The next day we cycled up the hill to St Maime, about half a mile horizontally and a bit more vertically (well that’s how it felt).

There is a ruined castle and the castle chapel at the top of the hill; the castle is famous for having been the home of the Comptes de Provence. The four daughters of Raymond Berenger V were bought up here; all married Kings. Éléonore married Henry III of England.

Dauphin

Across the valley from St Maime is the village of Dauphin, our next port of call. This is a stunningly beautiful village, with great views from the top.

Church at Dauphin

Dauphin

Whilst we were walking round Dauphin the Mayor walked over and introduced himself. A charming man, he was clearly very proud of his village.

Dauphinn…Top of the Village

14th century arch at Dauphin

Basking

Mane

Next stop Mane, a larger village about 4km to the West. One of us (not Nia) took the wrong turning and after about a mile up a hill against a bit of a headwind there was nearly a divorce. However we did get here eventually and walked up the hill to the 12th century citadel.

Citadel at Mane

Mane

Tagged with: Dauphin, france, Haute-Provence, Luberon, Mane, Mavis, motorhome, photography, St Maime
Posted in 2014 Spring, Dauphin, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, St Maime

Poppies

Posted on May 13, 2014 by Peter and Nia — Leave a comment

Picture Window

Colin, Penny, Max and I walked up the half mile or so to the village to visit the Boulangerie first thing. Baguette, croissant and tartelette aux poires. No danger of starvation in France.

High Church

There is a footpath up to the 12th century church at the top of the village.

Church of Saint Michel.

After breakfast we cycled up to the Observatory, past fields of poppies.

Poppies

The observatory wasn’t open to visitors until Wednesday so we cycled back to Mavis, picked up the dogs and set off up the hill towards Banon.

Heading for Banon

Banon is famous for its goats cheese, served wrapped in a chestnut leaf. If you taste it in May , apparently, at the time of the annual cheese festival, you will never want to leave. However Banon was about 20km, with a few hills en route, it was a hot day and we didn’t quite get there. We ended up on this deserted provencal lane.